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The relationship between Maqlouba the Palestinians and Salahuddin

Monday 4-June-2018

Maqlouba which literally means ‘upside down’ is a traditional dish that has long been spoken of by the Palestinians with many ingredients and appetizers topped by meat vegetables and rice. It is becoming more popular in Ramadan as one of the most important dishes offered by Palestinian restaurants.

Variety of flavors
Chefs say Maqlouba has a variety of flavors based on its components. Known in the Levant and Turkey this dish has a special relationship with the Palestinians specifically taking different forms and flavors.

According to Palestinian cooking expert Siham al-Baghdadi fried reddish eggplant is usually cooked with lamb only without adding any other ingredient.

Maqlouba has been characterized by this flavor for years and is often cooked in autumn and winter according to Baghdadi.

On the other hand Maqlouba with cauliflower is usually cooked with chicken. Sometimes potatoes and fried carrots are added to it.

The oldest dish
But the real Maqlouba is one made of chicken and cauliflower or meat and fried eggplant which is served with yoghurt and vegetables salad Baghdadi says.

Chef Mazen Al-Julani the managing cook at the Uncle Saleh restaurant one of the most popular restaurants in Hebron said that Maqlouba is the most sought-after dish in the Hebron governorate and is sold as a fast-food dish for individuals especially Maqlouba with cauliflower which is served with chicken and has a very attractive view.

He added “We offer dozens of meals at our restaurant but the demand on Maqlouba is the highest” noting: “We feel there is an affectionate relationship between Hebron and the Maqlouba dish.”

Bazinjania and Salahuddin
Palestinian researcher Mohammed Ziab Abu Saleh of the city of Dura in the Hebron governorate asserts that Maqlouba had appeared since the era of Salahuddin where it was called Bazinjania because of the use of fried eggplant as a basic component to cook it.

“When Jerusalem was retaken from the invading crusaders by Muzaffar Salahuddin al-Ayyubi and he entered the city along with his soldiers Jerusalemites welcomed them with hospitality and women competed to serve Bazinjania which was made of fried eggplants and chickens and which they specially cooked for Salahuddin and his soldiers.”

He continued: “The women would bring the Bazinjania dish turning it upside down where the bottom of the dish goes on the top.”

Abu Salih adds: “When Salahuddin al-Ayyubi tasted it he enjoyed its taste and flavor. He said: “What is this dish?” People answered “it is Bazinjania” and he said: “No it is upside down!”

Easy cooking and a great taste
Palestinian women in turn call the dish “the dish of idiot women” because it is easy to prepare and deliver.

“In less than an hour you could make Maqlouba offering it to guests or family” says the chef.

As how it is made he explains: “Chicken is cut then fried and cooked. After that half a kilo of eggplant is brought chopped and fried and then ingredients are arranged in layers.”

“The first layer at the bottom of the cooker is fried chicken topped by fried eggplant then half a kilo of soaked rice is poured and chicken soup is added to it” he continued.

It is then cooked for half an hour to dry the soup then one or two spoons of margarine are added and then it is turned upside down in a tray or large dish the chef said.

Thus the bottom of the dish goes to the top and it looks attractive smelling refreshing thanks to spices and margarine he elaborated.

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