By Jehan Alfarra
What was once a majestic symbol of spiritual devotion and architectural grandeur today lies shattered amidst the debris as a haunting testament to the devastating impact of Israel’s 2023 war on Gaza and the relentless bombing of the besieged territory.
In the heart of Gaza’s Old City stood the magnificent Great Omari Mosque, a place that has borne witness to the ebb and flow of conquerors and civilizations, the rise and fall of empires, carrying in its stones the scent of ancient tales.
What was once a majestic symbol of spiritual devotion and architectural grandeur, however, today lies shattered amidst the debris as a haunting testament to the devastating impact of Israel’s 2023 war on Gaza and the relentless bombing of the besieged territory.
As you stepped through the ancient doors of the Omari Mosque, you found yourself enveloped in a sanctuary that whispers secrets of the past, in a monument the foundations of which trace back to antiquity.
From a pagan Philistine temple to a church, to a mosque, back to a church then a mosque again, the religious site has witnessed numerous transformations that mirror the changing tides of civilizations and faiths in the holy land.
Legend whispers that the mosque stood on the site of a Philistine temple venerating Dagon, an ancient deity linked to fertility and water and which is said to have inspired mermaid folklore.
Transformed through epochs, the ruins of the temple gave rise to the Cathedral of John the Baptist, built by the Romans around 406 AD – until Muslim conquest of the land of Palestine transformed the site again.
During the Umayyad Caliphate, around 700 AD, the cathedral was repurposed into a mosque, known as the Great Omari Mosque and named after Omar Ibn Al-Khattab, one of Islam’s early caliphs. But in the 11th century, during the Crusades, the mosque was turned back into a church.
Documented records of the site’s current status date back to the early 12th century, during the reign of the Ayyubid Sultan Saladin, whose victories against the Crusaders reshaped the landscape of the Levant.
Under Saladin’s rule, the mosque took shape, showcasing a blend of architectural influences, including distinct features from the Islamic, Byzantine and Crusader eras – all converging into a breathtaking masterpiece. Its minaret was built by the Mamluks in their characteristic style: a square foundation and octagonal tower.
In the evenings, as the call to prayer echoed melodiously, the mosque transformed. Lights cast a soft tranquil glow, painting a portrait of serenity against the backdrop of a bustling city.
The Great Omari Mosque drew hundreds of Muslim worshippers and seekers of solace throughout the Mamluk, Ottoman and British mandate periods in Gaza. Through eras of conquests and tribulations, this sacred edifice stood as more than just a monument of stone and mortar; each pillar and archway held stories – stories of wars and peace, of faith and resilience, bridging the past with the present. The hushed murmurs of prayers echoed off its walls, reverberating a chorus of devotion that has transcended centuries.
Having weathered numerous storms, both literal and metaphorical, today the mosque bears witness once more to hauntingly familiar turmoil.
-Jehan Alfarra is a UK-based writer and multimedia journalist covering Middle Eastern affairs and culture, and specializing in Palestinian political news and social issues. Her article appeared in MEMO.
